people-watching

Public trasit is a wonderful way from which to view a city's populace, and vienna has wonderful public transit.  Old trams, new trams, buses up the yinyang, a comprehensive metro system and overground trains - we have taken them all.

And from my various seats and standing positions I have derive a profile of the average Viennese. the vast majority are dark haired and dark eyed.  I don'tknwo why that surprises me, given Austria's history that looked southward:  a Roman town first, much later an empire that stretched southward to include Hungary, and even a decisive battle with the Turks. 

The most striking Viennese are those with dark hair and blue eyes, or blond hair with dark eyes.  But even the blonds with blue eyes seem a darker sort of blond - a silver blong instead of a gold blond if that makes any sense.  Perhaps becuase their skin seems pale and transparent. Not too many roses on these cheeks!

They're all incredibly finely boned - you could cut wurst with their cheekbones - and rather delicate looking, almost wan.  There's a quietness and a wariness.  They take awhile to size someone up, looking over their entire person, and then look away when done, curiosity satisfied.  I used to think Gustav Klimt exaggerated his characters'features, but some of the people I've seen here could walk straight out of one of his paintings.  Even the men, whose delicate features seem almost feminine and catlike.

Smiles are rare, and conversations are short.  Coffee houses encourage thought and study - large poles holding newspapers and journals are available to read over a coffee or two - people spend hours here on their own or in couples and small groups, everyone reading from a different pole. No wonder this country has spawned so many intellectuals and artists, there is an inward quality to everyone here.  A lot of glasses, clothing that is on the conservative side, sensible shoes, hair that requires little effort.  If a movie wanted extras that looked like European academics to fill a background location, a lot of moncy could be saved by just setting up a camera anywhere in Vienna.  Extroverted, outdoorsy types need not apply.